Go-finis
It's a wrap
I’m scrolling through the Roviana Lagoon Festival Facebook posts and munching on Christmas fruit mince tarts, smiling at memories. The canoe tug ‘o war is back, an ingenious pushmi-pullyu solution arrived at after much hilarious debate during festival organisers’ meetings. Uncle Frank dreamed up the idea and it was up to the rest of us to work out the logistics. Zenno, the committee chairlady, was nervous that people might be offended, given the integral part canoeing plays in the culture, but clearly the Solomon islanders sense of fun has prevailed.
The last time I saw Zenno was at Munda Airport. We were playing the now you’re leaving I can tell you game. It started with me saying: ‘I was a bit nervous about saltwater crocodiles, but I never saw one the whole time we were here’ and Zenno said, ‘Mmm, interesting. Now that you’re leaving I can tell you…’
Tell me what?
‘Well, you know where you swim, in the lagoon in front of your house? There’s that little island close by…’
Turned out we’d been floating in croc-infested waters on a regular basis. Along with the whole of Wonderland Waterpark. Which never got any busier, I might add. It comes to me their outrageous pricing wasn’t the only thing that had been deterring locals from frequenting it.
Our game was cut short by the arrival of our plane. In typical Solomon-style, if it’s not three days late (which it wasn’t on that particular day), it’s early. Way too early. There was a flurry of teary hugs and last selfies as we were hustled, protesting, through to the departure lounge. Where was Zaza?
We couldn’t leave without saying goodbye. As promised, we were wearing our matching island shirt and dress that were tailor-made for the occasion, farewell gifts from the wonderful staff in the provincial office. They’d been given to us the night before at the restaurant at Agnes Lodge, best-ever go-finis dinner. Vegetarian pizza for us (Keith’s favourite), hot stone grilled fish for everyone else, a specially-created farewell cake with ice-cream (major treat in Munda), wine and karaoke. Really good karaoke. Both Zaza and Lorna have beautiful voices.
Only, where were they?
Peering through the window, I spotted Zaza running across the parking lot. Delcie followed a couple of metres behind. Zaza kept turning around, beckoning towards a path through the bush leading to the village. A few seconds later, Lorna emerged from it. Then all three were rushing towards the airport terminal waving frantically. We waved back from behind the window. Trapped. Trying to touch hands through the glass, giggling and gasping for breath, mouthing farewells, all hopelessly inadequate and yet somehow absolutely perfect.
As we hotfooted across the tarmac to the 36-seater Dash-8 aircraft, laughing and crying, I remember thinking: this is Solomon Time. How did I ever imagine we’d be able to tame it for tourists?
We flew to Honiara via Seghe, which was a big surprise. It felt like a parting gift from the universe. I got to see what the newly completed runway looks like from the air. When we travelled here with Zaza, Meria and Deckie, it had been in the provincial boat.
The Marovo Lagoon was one of those bucket-list things for me, a take-out from our trip to the Sols all those years ago. I thought it was going to have to remain a dream. The reality was nothing like I imagined, not better or worse, just different. It left us wanting more. I told Betty at Mavo Ecolodge on Ramata Island that we’d be back and that feels like a broken promise. We never got to stay at Driftwood Lodge or Evis Resort, visit Uepi or sail Marovo’s five ports on the Pelican ferry. Sadly, we ran out of time.
Even through scratched and grimy windows, the lagoons of New Georgia Island are gorgeous from the air, I squeezed everything I could out of that last look. The half hour flight to Honiara gave me time to catch up with myself and count the things we did and didn’t do.
One thing that had never been on my bucket-list – but would have been if I’d known about it – was our encounter with leatherback turtles at Baniata. An unforgettable experience.
And the other things…
We estimated we walked more than1,200 kms to the office and back over the course of the year
Never learned to break English Pijin-style or speak Roviana
Never stopped being surprised by relics although we fell slightly out of love with our relic house
Never needed those grab bags, ready-and-waiting at the door when the Russian earthquake panicked the whole of the South Pacific with tsunami alerts
Discovered sea-lice aren’t actually lice at all, but tiny jellyfish larvae that sting when they get caught in your togs
Got braver about small boat travel although I never came to like Noro any better
And on our very last walk to work, we glimpsed a pair of hornbills in the bush, which until then had proved as elusive as saltwater crocodiles.
As for as our assignment with Zaza and the Munda Provincial Office, we consider it our most successful yet.
As far as the website goes, well, that’s unfinished business. Again, we ran out of time. Frustrating, because it was starting to work really well and even bring in bookings. Have a look: Travel West Solomons
We’ve been back in Auckland for two and a half months now. The weather has been unseasonably warm and sunny and we revel in the contrast of places. It makes both seem more magical. No culture shock this time around because we’ve done it many times before and we still have regular contact with Zaza and the provincial staff. That’s a forever bond.
Thanks for joining me on this journey. It’s a wrap, as they say, it’s been fun to share it with you. I’m not sure where we’re headed next. We’re staying in temporary accommodation with our possessions still in storage and an array of choices before us, all decisions deferred until the New Year.
Leana hola (thank you in Roviana) and happy holidays.
The Facebook post of the tug ‘o war at this year’s Roviana Lagoon Festival
I'm really glad saltwater crocs are elusive - I bet that you guys are too! Wonderful Di.xx
A gift, yes, as Elisabeth has said, and I'm sad to hear it's the last one. Stay well!